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Lummis's 'Tramp Across the Continent'
On
September 12, 1884, Charles Lummis set out from Cincinnati
determined to walk all the way to Los Angeles to take a job as a
reporter for the L.A. Times. He had several explanations for his
choice in mode of travel. He was concerned that he had gone soft after
several years of desk work as a reporter in Chillicothe,
Ohio, and he wanted to get back in shape. He also wanted to see his
country up close, and get to know its people, something he couldn’t
do through the windows of a train car. Offering a different
explanation, he once referred to his "tramp across the
continent" as "the longest walk for pure pleasure on
record," a statement that glossed over the many hardships and the
tedium he endured on the 3507-mile trek. He never did openly admit
that there was yet another reason:
he wanted to make a name for himself.
The trip was a great success in
every respect. He was in peak physical condition when he
reached Los Angeles on Feb. 1, 1885. He developed an intimate
familiarity with the American west, met hundreds of people along the
way, and had plenty of pleasures along with the pain. Best of all,
Lummis was a national sensation, thanks to the series of
colorful newspaper dispatches he filed every week along the way and the book he
later wrote about his adventures.
Lummis was publicity
conscious from the start, as was apparent in his choice of clothing.
His outfit evolved during the course of his journey, and so did the
image he projected. Here are several excerpts
from American Character, a new biography of Charles Lummis, about the
odd attire he donned on his
tramp.
Lummis
in a studio photograph taken in Los Angeles some time
after he completed his tramp.
Photo Courtesy of the
Southwest Museum,
Los Angeles |
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American Character:
The Curious Life of
Charles Fletcher Lummis and the
Rediscovery of the Southwest
ORDER THE BOOK
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What
struck folks in Chillicothe about Charlie Lummis’s plan to
walk all the way to Los Angeles, as much as the audacity of what
he intended to do, was the set of clothes he chose for the trip.
After some research and thought on the matter, he concluded that
the ideal outfit consisted of a white flannel shirt tied at the
neck with a blue ribbon, knickerbockers, red knee-high
stockings, a wide-brimmed felt hat and low cut Curtis &
Wheeler dress shoes. Over it all, he would wear a large, canvas
duck coat.
The coat was an obvious choice. It had 23
pockets in all, and it was big enough to serve as a blanket at
night, if he got caught without a roof to sleep under before he
reached Kansas, where a blanket roll, Winchester rifle and other
supplies that he had shipped ahead by rail awaited him. He
picked the shoes because they fit him perfectly and were
sturdily put together, and he believed that a higher-topped
model would coddle his ankles, preventing them from getting as
tough as they would need to be to propel him across the
continent. As for the knickerbockers, he said he chose them
because he didn’t want two extra feet of trouser material
flapping loose around his lower legs.
Lummis must have known they would also help attract attention
to his tramp. That wouldn’t hurt his stock as a young writer
making a name for himself. The publicity about his odd attire
might come at some cost to his dignity, but surely he knew that
as well. Lummis just didn’t mind if people poked fun at him.
In fact, defying conventions was part of the point, and ridicule
came with that territory. In just two years in Chillicothe, he
had become a favorite son well known and loved for his
eccentricities. People would have been disappointed if Charlie
Lummis had set out for California without making some sort of
splash.
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Lummis made the longest stop on his journey
in an enchanting town that captured his heart: Santa Fe, New Mexico.
When he left eight days after arriving, he was a new man.
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Leaving
Santa Fe "was as hard as breaking away from your best
girl at 11:45 p.m., when she puts her soft arms around your
neck and says, ‘Oh, George, it is real early yet. Please don’t
go’," Lummis wrote. But there were other adventures
awaiting him as he headed out of the old New Mexico capital on
Dec. 3….
Back on the road after his eight-day
respite, Lummis was sporting a new look. He was wearing
"a handsome pair of buckskin leggins made for some Apache
dude." He had changed his attire "with all due
respect for the knickerbockers," he assured his readers.
In fact, he was still carrying the knickers and reserved the
option of donning them once again as soon as he reached the
Mojave Desert. But now, even though it was still unseasonably
warm in New Mexico, he knew that hard winter weather would hit
any time. Crossing over La Veta Pass he knew the knickers
simply weren’t up to the challenge of a Western winter. He
didn’t care to freeze his kneecaps off in blind allegiance
to them. Besides, it was clear from his loving description of
the leggings that his fascination with them had quickly
displaced his attachment to the knickers.
They were as soft as velvet and skin-tight from the ankle
up with a two-foot fringe of thong running down the outside
seam of each leg. "I’d just like to walk into
Chillicothe with my recent outfit and see the small boys skin
over the back fences holding on to their scalps with both
hands," he wrote. More pertinent to his immediate needs,
"The wind might just as well try to blow open a
burglar-proof safe as to get through these things."…
Later, a few days west of the Rio Grande,
Lummis spent several hours preparing his strangest clothing
accessory yet. He had been itching to kill a coyote for weeks
but never got within rifle range of one. In western New
Mexico, however, he managed to kill a coyote with poison that
he mixed with lard and left outside a section house over
night. The next morning, he amazed the railroad workers by
"casing" the animal, skinning it in such a way that
the hide remained intact. He spent hours gathering enough dry
grass in the barren desert to stuff it so that it would dry en
route. Then, slinging the animal over his shoulders like a
shawl, he continued on his way.
By this point in his tramp, Lummis no
longer looked anything like the spiffy fellow with the felt
hat and knickers portrayed in the souvenir photo handed out by
the Leader. He had decided to forego shaving until he
reached Los Angeles, so he had a beard for one of the few
times in his life. To cut down on weight, he had traded his
10-pound Winchester rifle for a second Colt revolver so that
he now had two of the six-shooters strapped around his waist.
He had a skunk pelt dangling from his bedroll, a rattlesnake
skin wrapped around the crown of his sombrero, the Apache
leggings, and a stuffed coyote around his neck.
As he told it, he looked strange enough to
upstage a colorful crowd of celebrants at the Laguna pueblo
when he strolled into the village on Christmas day. They were
in full-feathered regalia, performing the Corn Dance before an
audience of 1,000 Indians, when Lummis walked down the main
street and took his place among the spectators to watch for a
while. He amused the children by jiggling the coyote while
making growling sounds. The people of Laguna must have thought
that the "wild man of the plains" had dropped by for
a visit, Lummis remarked. Lummis made no mention of the coyote
after that. The uncured skin of a dead animal probably emitted
a horrific stench after a day or two and was unceremoniously
discarded after it served its purpose as a crowd pleaser at
the Corn Dance.
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The
people of Laguna must have thought that the "wild man of
the plains" had dropped by for a visit when Lummis strolled
into the Indian pueblo, he remarked. |
Two months later, Lummis reached Los
Angeles.
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"His
garb was not reassuring to the timid," Times publisher
Harrison Gray Otis said of his new reporter.
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Los
Angeles Times publisher Harrison Gray Otis had sent word to
Lummis that he wanted to meet him on the outskirts of town. He
suggested a hotel in San Gabriel as a good place to meet.
Lummis got there ahead of schedule, so he cleaned up, shaved,
had a meal and was "smoking a meditative pipe" when
a "portly military looking man" entered, took a good
look at the bandaged arm and said, "Mr. Lummis."
"Yours truly," Lum replied. It
was Col. Harrison Gray Otis.
Otis and Lummis walked together for the
final 10 miles to Los Angeles, and the two had a celebratory
late night meal at Eckert’s restaurant on Court Street.
Otis wrote about Lummis’s Sunday-evening
arrival for the Tuesday edition, Monday being the one day of
the week when the Times wasn’t printed. "His garb was
not reassuring to the timid," Otis remarked, ticking off
a long list of the odd things Lummis wore or carried in the
pockets of his coat. The proprietor of Eckert’s "no
doubt thought he was seeing a first class tramp." Indeed,
his outfit was "calculated to excite the curiosity of the
police," Otis joked.
"Mr. Lummis has made a trip that puts
him in the first rank of American travelers," Otis
concluded. "It was needless to say that he did not come
here for his health, and he could hardly be called a
tenderfoot. He has joined the staff of the Times, and has come
to stay."
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